Best climbers ape index reddit The average human ape index is probably 0 using the subtraction method or 1 using the ratio method. Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. However, since I’m not a comp climber, short arms are not gonna affect me as much. But like any other sport, you need to practice and do supplementary exercises to excel. Sure, a positive ape index definitely helps - no doubt about it But the importance of ape index is overstated in my personal opinion. Quite a few great climbers (e. The man has an impressive ape index, but I swear his center of gravity is at his sternum. That’s exceedingly unremarkable. Reddit's rock climbing training community. com Jun 4, 2024 · So you can be a short person with a positive ape index, like Sasha Di Giulian, who’s 157. nu saying he is now 183, I can guarantee that he is nowhere near that height, the same way that Paul Jenft is nowhere near 198 no matter what his IFSC profile says (I’ve always found this one pretty funny) The best female lead climbers are around 163 cm tall and the best boulderers around 164 cm tall. The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Obviously it would be ridiculous and for against so many climbing philosophies. Not much differences however. Just find a 8a wich doesn't require huge moves, there are plenty of those. 5 cm tall and has an impressive +5 cm ape index. 9 if Ape index >0/5. I consider that dividing your wingspan by your height is the best methold. " I have never heard of someone reporting ape index as a ratio, other than this example of someone being confused what a ratio means. 5cm tall with a 157. The best female lead climbers are around 163 cm tall and the best boulderers around 164 cm tall. Oct 8, 2021 · Babsi Zangerl, one of the best trad climbers in the world, has a -0. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. Jul 9, 2021 · The Average Ape Index Compared to Famous Climbers Average Ape Index. Lynn Hill, Alex Megos) don't have a positive ape index. You might not become the best in the world, but this doesn't stop you from getting good at the sport. which requires him to be pretty close to I think the most ideal body for comp climbing is being relatively short ~5’8 but with a massive wingspan like Tomoa. although we all faced that moment when an extra 2 cm would have made the difference between life and death, right? Here’s an Ape Index Chart of some of the best climbers out there: See full list on climbinghouse. 10a if Ape Index<0/5. The average climbing community probably averages much more on the plus side. 173cm is roughly 5’8. If you don’t know your ape index yet, there are several methods, some more complex than others. Speaking of pro climbers, statistically, most pro climbers male or female have a +2 ape index which is not that much. "Height bad, BMI good. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. I did mine last june ;) Enjoy your climbing and don't bother with things you can't control ! There was also a nice lesson for Ben on sampling and outliers. g. Height - 71 inches Arm Span - 76 inches Ape Index 1 = 1. 07 Ape Index 2 = 5 inches Those sit down starts can be pretty grim, though I find my long legs more of a problem than long arms. There’s also a slight bias between the sexes. Imagine how contrived a “5. Magnus is 173cm tall with a 176cm ape index. . 4 inch (+1 cm) ape index. If someone said, "My ape index is 1%" people would be confused. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. Most of the rest of the time, I love the lank. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. Nov 2, 2023 · Pro Climbers & Their Ape Index. But yeah, it's definitely an aspect that plays a role. 8 ape index (or, an ape index ratio of 0. That guy has a freaking +4 ape index or something like that. That one person reversed the correlation for women. 15d if Ape Index =O” system would read (I’m clearly joking). 5cm wingspan. Honestly if you go to competitions you’ll realise pretty much every climber is shorter than you realised. I've got a -4cm ape index, climbing with friends with positive ones, the main difference is that while bouldering, we're forced to use different betas. Lynn Hill, one of the best climbers in the world at the time, is 157. How to calculate ape index. Not overweight at all, but his body simply is not slender, even when he was seriously into cycling before he started climbing. 99) Alex Megos, one of the best sport climbers in the world, has an ape index of 0 (or, an ape index ratio of 1) And Adam Ondra, arguably the greatest living climber, has a +0. Tall ppl don’t live in vans Only article I found mentioning height is on 8a. They do need extra inch on arms to secure a podium. 11”. Totally agree!! My climbing partner is my husband, and he is 6’3” and not a wire-y build. It’s not like grades take it into account. Anyway, I'm sure there are statisticians or math-savvy climbers here who can make much more of it than we did. As food for thought, at basically every point in climbing (except maybe now) the best climbers have had long ape indexes and/or were tall, going back into the stonemaster era, the jerry moffat/ben moon/wolfgang gullich, fred nicole, sharma, adam ondra. xttl oxrkudr dlwbla jksstd mej xadf rxtqqf ewljqr jbt uzykad